Princess of the Bottom of the World Episode 7: Photos

La Plata, Argentina (2014) — The city’s largest park, called Paseo del Bosque, has a lake, a zoo, a botanical garden, an observatory, soccer stadiums, picnic grounds, recreational trails, and sporting fields. Nestled among its trees is also the Barra del Bosque, a beautiful getaway for a drink and snack. (Photo by Dan Linehan)

La Plata, Argentina (2013) — Plodding through the streets at all hours and mining the curbside trash for cardboard, cartoneros started out the poorest of the poor. Now, after forming work and social cooperatives, they command legions—tens of thousands strong—of street-side recyclers. On a good run, a cartonero will build up the sides of the cart to tower with cardboard. Almost comically, huge cloth sacks tied to the already overloaded carts hang in the balance. A two-wheeler packed like this gives the impression of a playground teeter-totter with a huge kid at one end and a tiny kid—feet dangling in the air—at the other. (Photo by Dan Linehan)

La Plata, Argentina (2014) — A few blocks away from the city’s majestic cathedral and stunning theater, Gran Confitería Paris offers a wonderful selection of pastries, including alfajores filled with dulce de leche and facturas filled with rebellious symbolism. The bakery was founded in 1969, and La Plata’s chamber of commerce wrote this about when it also served as a bar and ballroom: “...donde poetas bohemios dejaron imborrable huella y los muchachos en fila veían pasar a las chicas...” This translates to: “...where bohemian poets left an indelible mark and the boys in a row watched the girls go by...” (Photo by Dan Linehan)

Tierra del Fuego, Argentina (2007) — Asado is a traditional Argentine barbeque where different cuts of meat, sausages, and other “delicacies” cook on a large grill (parrilla). In the countryside of Tierra del Fuego, a metal cross (a la cruz) inclined over an open fire is used for lamb (cordero) asado. (Photo by Dan Linehan)

Buenos Aires, Argentina (2014) — People have become more aware of the benefits of healthy eating and sustainable living. As demand for this way of life increases, more and more green options are becoming available in cities like La Plata and Buenos Aires. This shelf in a food collective that promotes social responsibility features organic honey from regional beehives. (Photo by Dan Linehan)

Buenos Aires, Argentina (2014) — On Avenida 9 de Julio at Plaza de la República, stands the 221-foot-tall Obelisco, which was erected in 1936 to commemorate the city’s 400-year anniversary. The monument has also come to be a symbol of Argentina. In celebration after the World Cup in 2014, Argentine fútbol (soccer) fans circled the Obelisco and filled the wide avenue up and down. (Photo by Dan Linehan)

Buenos Aires, Argentina (2014) — Casa Rosado—the Pink House—rises up along the eastern edge of Plaza de Mayo. The seat of Argentina’s national government, the palace became entrenched in popular culture through stories of Evita Perón standing on a balcony and addressing the people of Argentina. The balcony with three windows, to the immediate right of the palm tree and under the domed roof, is where Madonna gave a wonderful performance singing “Don’t Cry for Me Argentina” in the film Evita. (Photo by Dan Linehan)

Buenos Aires, Argentina (2007) — A corrupt and savage dictatorship rose to power in Argentina from 1976 to 1983—a regime the US backed and helped train. It used horrible means to silence its opposition, including secretly kidnapping, torturing, and killing people it deemed threats to the administration. Tens of thousands met their fate this way. They are the disappeared. And their children, sometimes born in captivity, were separated from their parents and relocated. This white scarf painted on the bricks of Plaza de Mayo, like many others, is a symbol of the Madres y Abuelas de la Plaza de Mayo—the Mothers and Grandmothers of the Plaza de Mayo—who still gather to mourn and wish for the return of their loved ones. (Photo by Dan Linehan)

Buenos Aires, Argentina (2007) — Commissioned as a gunship in 1874, the Armada de la República Argentina (ARA) Uruguay was later converted to use as an expedition support vessel. The ship had a barque sail configuration, but its main source of propulsion came from a steam engine. A steel hull covered by teak wood helped it safely navigate icy waters. In 1903, after ice and extreme weather sank the ship of Swedish explorer Otto Nordenskiöld in Antarctica, the Uruguay sailed to the rescue. Preserved as a ship museum, the historic Uruguay can be visited at Puerto Madera. (Photo by Dan Linehan)

Buenos Aires, Argentina (2014) — On the eastern edge of Puerto Madero, a long wall—low enough to jump upon or use for a seat—borders a promenade that runs along Costanera Sur Ecological Reserve. Heading farther east (to the left), the reserve meets Río de la Plata, the main waterway connecting Buenos Aires to the Atlantic Ocean. Walking along the promenade, enjoying food from a street vendor, or finding a shady spot in the reserve to drink tereré—cold mate with lemon and sugar—is a wonderful way to spend a warm, sunny afternoon in Buenos Aires. (Photo by Dan Linehan)

Buenos Aires, Argentina (2014) — Shaped like a giant, windswept sail, Puente de la Mujer (Woman’s Bridge) spans the banks of Río Darsena Sur at Puerto Madero. Behind its supports, which look like harp strings, rise the masts of the Uruguay. (Photo by Dan Linehan)

Buenos Aires, Argentina (2013) — A few blocks from Plaza de Mayo and bordering Puerto Madero is San Telmo, the oldest barrio, or neighborhood, of Buenos Aires. Restaurants, arts and crafts vendors, and markets fill many of its narrow, cobblestone streets. Look for a plaza to find tango dancing or a street-side cafe to unwind with a bottle of beer and picadas (cured meat and cheese), lomitos (steak sandwiches), or parrilla (grilled meat). (Photo by Dan Linehan)

Buenos Aires, Argentina (2013) — Lighted kioscos pop up along streets across the city like splashes of colorful paint. While some may be as tiny as a window opening with a flashy sign overhead, most are small convenience stores without seating. Cheap sunglasses, souvenirs, and snacks make up some of the impulse buys. However, some purchases are born out of true necessity. (Photo by Dan Linehan)

Buenos Aires, Argentina (2011) — Yerba mate trees, a species of holly, grow at the botanical garden in Palermo. Yerba means herb, and the botanical name for yerba mate is Ilex paraguariensis. These are 1 of about 6,000 species of plants and trees from around the globe that grow across the garden’s 17 acres of lush, beautiful greenery. Not far from this patch, there is even a California coastal redwood. (Photo by Dan Linehan)

Buenos Aires, Argentina (2013) — Mate (pronounced mah-tay) is traditionally drunk from a hollowed-out, dried gourd called a mate, like the simple, multicolored ones inside the front basket, selling for 8 pesos. Mates can also be crafted much more decoratively and fashioned from glass, metal, wood, leather, or combinations of these. Mate isn’t drunk from a mate like tea is drunk from a cup. A metal drinking straw called a bombilla (pronounced bom-be-shah) is inserted into the mate that is then filled with loose, finely chopped mate leaves and hot water. Now, the mate is ready to drink. (Photo by Dan Linehan)

La Plata, Argentina (2013) — In 2013, the worst storm (tormenta) in the history of La Plata struck. In less than a day, over 15 inches of rain fell. This caused flooding of up to 6 feet in places. Many people died. Though La Plata is a modern, planned city with a well-designed infrastructure, it simply could not handle this amount of rain. Here, a car drives through a three-way intersection where the water level has already risen above the curbs and sidewalks. (Photo by Dan Linehan)

La Plata, Argentina (2013) — Flooding doesn’t just damage areas directly hit by the overflowing water. Unsanitary waste, unwanted chemicals, and other pollution washes into the water supply and contaminates drinking water, which increases the scale of the impact. It can take days, or in some cases much longer, for the water to be treated and safe to drink. After La Plata’s flood, emergency water had to be trucked in. (Photo by Dan Linehan)

Deception Island, Antarctica (2007) — Wooden staves, half buried in the volcanic mud of Deception Island, point skyward from this graveyard of whale oil barrels. Once the economics became unfavorable—it was harder to hunt whales due to their scarcity, and fossil fuel became more readily available—the profit pressure for whaling subsided. Without any real whaling industry remaining, there was little fight against measures that would eventually do the right thing and lead to the protection of whales. (Photo by Dan Linehan)

El Calafate, Argentina (2007) — Massive chunks of blue ice broke free from the Perito Moreno Glacier in El Calafate to form large icebergs. When ice on a glacier cracks away, underlying blue ice is exposed. As air penetrates this fresh surface, the now-exposed blue ice will completely whiten within a few hours. When a glacier is covered by a lot of blue ice, or, worse, when blue ice itself is crumbling, it is an indication that the glacier is collapsing at a very high rate. The blue ice doesn’t even have time to turn white before falling. Once in a blue moon is one thing. But seeing normally uncommon blue ice more frequently is not a good sign. (Photo by Dan Linehan)

Booth Island, Antarctica (2007) — A chinstrap penguin parent watches over its two chicks in a small, rocky colony, as another chinstrap looks on from a distance. These two chicks will have to grow and survive during a time when the world around them is rapidly changing. (Photo by Dan Linehan)

Buenos Aires, Argentina (2014) — Trees line the bustling street in front of apartment buildings in Recoleta. Parks, plazas, and the national library are just short walks away. Even closer are markets for produce and restaurants serving Malbec and empanadas. (Photo by Dan Linehan)

Ushuaia, Argentina (2013) — A closer inspection of this map showing the tip of South America reveals red markings that indicate where shipwrecks have happened all along the coast of Tierra del Fuego. Cape Horn, the start of the Drake Passage, is littered with these markings, many of which identify ships that would have had Ushuaia as a port of call. The map is a window into the maritime history of Ushuaia and the region, and a further look will show the reflection of the port right across the street. (Photo by Dan Linehan)